# Created Workshop - Site: https://createdworkshop.com/ ## Beginner’s Walkthrough of xTool Studio - Link: https://createdworkshop.com/beginners-walkthrough-of-xtool-studio - Published: 2025-09-19T15:41:00-05:00 - Author: Patrick Campanale xTool Studio is rolling in as the unified replacement for xTool Creative Space ( XCS)—and it’s the only officially supported software for the P3. While many makers default to LightBurn, Studio brings a bunch of practical upgrades that are worth a look: device simulation, smart nesting, built‑in generators, a real asset library, background autosave to the cloud, and a preview that actually simulates on-material output. Below is a quick tour of what’s new, what works well, and a few wishes for future updates. ## Key Takeaways * Official software for the P3; no LightBurn support announced for it. * Try any xTool machine in software (even if you don’t own it) to preview speeds/ settings. * One‑Click Set makes material presets useful for both engrave and cut. * Smart Nesting packs shapes tightly to save material—huge for production. * New generators: earrings, keychains, boxes, and integrated Laser Map Maker. * Asset library (“MySpace”) for reusable files, plus background autosave. * Preview shows simulated results on your chosen material. * A few gaps: no engrave defocus control yet, preview lacks time estimate, generators don’t accept custom templates (yet). ## What’s New on the Home Screen * **Templates and Materials:** Browse Atom/XCS templates in-app, filter free/paid, and bookmark favorites. Materials now live on the home screen with quick access to XTool’s online library—and you can import custom materials. * **MySpace:** Cloud storage for projects and assets. Projects preserve device/ settings; Assets act like an art library for quick reuse. * **Preferences:** Units, canvas theme, hotkeys, vector quality, notifications, and more. ## Device Simulation (Even If You Don’t Own It) You can “switch device” and select any XTool machine (F1, F1 Ultra, F2 Ultra, S1, P3, etc.). Load a material (e.g., 1/4″ birch ply), choose a process, hit One‑Click Set, and Studio shows recommended power/speed. This is genuinely useful for: * Comparing cut/engrave performance across models before buying. * Estimating job times and settings when planning projects for a different machine. ## Import, Image Tools, and AI * **Import:** SVG/JPG/PNG, then Convert to Engrave/Score/Cut as needed. * **Image Edit:** Auto Adjust to grayscale; AI tools like Cutout, Expand, and Enhance. * **Export:** Vectors as SVG when you need to move assets elsewhere. ## Templates and Elements * **Templates:** Browse in a docked panel (nice UX—doesn’t cover your workspace). Compatibility tags show which machines/materials a template supports. Open into the current project. * **Elements:** Drop ready-made shapes/illustrations (hearts, leaves, mandalas, etc.) and convert them to cut/score/engrave. Great for quick fillers or sample projects. ## Applications: Built‑In Generators ### Earring Generator Pre-designed styles with sizing control and exploded views. Currently limited to built-in shapes. ### Keychain Generator Add text/phone numbers, choose fonts (uses system fonts), set hole size (e.g., 0.125″), and toggle banding/outline. ### Box Generator Surprisingly deep—tabs, kerf-aware thickness, optional borders, patterns, “design block” inset, and open/closed styles. ### Map Designer Laser Map Maker integrated. Requires a subscription ($12/mo hobbyist, $24/mo creator; annual discounts available). Design maps there, import directly into Studio. ## Smart Nesting (Material Saver) Studio’s Smart Nesting packs shapes efficiently within a target area—e.g., 18″ x 12″ sheet with auto-rotate. It can also detect work area from a camera photo (on supported machines). In testing, it nested a bunch of hearts into a tight 12″ x 8″ region without unwanted grouping, which is fantastic for: * Minimizing scrap on batch runs * Faster layout vs. manual alignment * Camera-assisted re-nesting on offcuts (to test when the P3 arrives) ## Process Controls and Layers * Layers by color with Engrave/Score/Cut toggles. * Curve Offset, Tab generation, and Lower Focus (for thicker cuts). * Boolean ops, compound vectors, group/ungroup, offset, node editing—tools are all here, just rearranged. **Note:** Engrave defocus (setting a custom Z for engraves) isn’t exposed yet. ## Preview and Simulation * **Preview** launches a material-aware simulation without sending to Process. * You can change the material (e.g., plywood to black metal business card) to see a closer visual approximation of results. * Framing controls sit near the preview controls. **Wish list:** Estimated time doesn’t show in Preview; you still need to go into Process to see it (time estimate now lives top-right). ## Autosave and Cloud * Background autosave syncs to MySpace when a project is cloud-saved. * Quickly save locally or to cloud from the left toolbar. ## Performance and Stability XTool indicates Studio should run smoother and lighter than XCS, with a cleaner UI and consolidated features. In general use, the interface feels tighter and more responsive. ## Limitations and Wishlist * **P3:** No LightBurn support; Studio is the path forward. * **Engrave defocus:** Ability to set a different focus height for engraves would be helpful. * **Generators:** Allow user-supplied templates for earrings/boxes. * **Preview:** Add time estimate to reduce round-tripping to Process. ## Who Should Try XTool Studio * **P3 owners (or soon-to-be):** It’s the exclusive software and feels ready for daily work. * **Batch producers and Etsy/market sellers:** Smart Nesting + asset library = faster, cheaper runs. * **Beginners coming from XCS:** Familiar feel but more capable; you won’t fight the UI. * **LightBurn users:** Still great for advanced control, but Studio’s nesting, asset cloud, and generators may save real time—even as a companion. ## Quick Start: Try These Features First 1. **Device Simulation:** Switch to a machine you’re considering and test One‑Click Set on common materials. 2. **Smart Nesting:** Paste a dozen shapes, set 18″ x 12″, enable Auto Rotate, and Start Nesting. 3. **Asset Library:** Save frequently used logos/frames as Assets for quick drop-in. 4. **Preview:** Change Materials in Preview to sanity-check engrave visibility before you waste a blank. 5. **Box/Keychain Generators:** Spin up a giftable project fast and tweak thickness/ holes/fonts to your stock. ## Meet the xTool F2 Ultra: Fiber + Diode, All Grown Up - Link: https://createdworkshop.com/meet-the-xtool-f2-ultra-fiber-diode-all-grown-up - Published: 2025-07-03T13:14:46-05:00 - Author: Patrick Campanale ![](https://createdworkshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/xTool-F2-Ultra-Wide.webp) xTool just launched the [**F2 Ultra**](https://www.xtool.com/pages/f2-ultra-coming-soon?ref=J2pJmUA2w2vTe&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_source=goaffpro&utm_term=11875), and it’s made for serious makers who want blazing-fast speed, material versatility, and full-color metal engraving options — all in one compact machine. Here’s the scoop: 💥 **60W MOPA Fiber + 40W Diode** 🎯 **Full-color metal engraving** (on stainless + titanium) ⚡ **15,000 mm/s max speed** 🎥 **Real-time camera preview + red-dot framing** 📐 **220 × 220 mm work area** (same as the F1 Ultra) Whether you’re already using an F1 or looking to dive into fiber, this thing’s made for makers who want to **work faster**, **add color**, and **engrave more materials**. ## The F2 Ultra is even more game changing than the F1 Ultra MOPA fiber lasers will completely change how you engrave [Check out the F2 Ultra on xTool’s Site](https://www.xtool.com/pages/f2-ultra-coming-soon?ref=J2pJmUA2w2vTe&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_source=goaffpro&utm_term=11875) ## 🧠 Why It Matters If you want to engrave stainless, colorize titanium, or just seriously level up your speed and workflow — this is your next machine. I’ve got a 30W MOPA fiber laser in the shop, and it already runs circles around my 20W xTool F1 Ultra — so I really can’t wait to see what the **F2 Ultra** is capable of! MOPA fiber lasers offer more control than traditional fiber lasers. With a MOPA, you not only expand your frequency range from 30-60kHz to 1-4000kHz, but you also gain control over the qpulse length. And here’s something cool — xTool is actually releasing **two versions** of the F2 Ultra: * **F2 Ultra**: 60W MOPA Fiber + 40W Diode * **F2 Ultra (Single)**: 60W MOPA only This is a smart move. It gives creators the option to either **go all-in with both lasers** or **stick to just the fiber**, depending on their needs and budget. ## ⚙️ Quick Specs Overview * **Lasers:** - 60W MOPA Fiber + 40W Diode - **Max Speed:** * 15,000 mm/s * **Workspace:** - 220 × 220 mm - **Color Metal Engraving:** * Stainless steel, titanium ## Who This Is For Whether you’re running a laser business, engraving jewelry, customizing knives, or just looking to expand into full-color metal work — the **F2 Ultra** opens up a whole new level of possibility. You get the speed and clarity of a fiber, the flexibility of a diode, and more power than any of xTool’s previous desktop machines — all in the same compact footprint as the F1 Ultra. ## What’s Next? I’m working on getting hands-on with the F2 Ultra — or at least borrowing one for testing — and I’d love to know: **What do you want to see first?** * Speed tests? * Color engraving demos? * Side-by-side with the F1 Ultra? Drop a comment or shoot me a message. I’m all ears. 👇 👉 [Explore the F2 Ultra on xTool’s site](https://www.xtool.com/pages/f2-ultra-coming-soon?ref=J2pJmUA2w2vTe&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_source=goaffpro&utm_term=11875) ~ Patrick **Created Workshop** _Ephesians 2:10_ ## Created to Create: Why I Started Created Workshop - Link: https://createdworkshop.com/created-to-create-why-i-started-created-workshop - Published: 2025-07-01T00:20:57-05:00 - Author: Patrick Campanale ![](https://createdworkshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/A7308313-1.webp) Hey friend, I want to take a break from tips and tools today and just share something a little more personal: **why I started Created Workshop.** ## **Why I Started Created Workshop** When it began, Created Workshop wasn’t a business. **It was a way out.** I was working a job that _started_ as a creative outlet—but over time, it became just another job. And if there’s one thing I’ve learned about myself, it’s this:** I need to create.** It’s part of who I am. So, I turned to woodworking. I had watched woodworking YouTube and thought, _“That looks fun!”_ so I decided to give it a try. I had barely touched hardwoods before, but I dove in headfirst— learning by doing, failing, improving, and repeating. That’s where it all began. ![](https://createdworkshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/A7308313-1.webp) ## **The First Projects and the Spark of Something New** Woodworking quickly turned into content creation (which is my true passion outside of ministry). But one Black Friday… everything changed. I grabbed a [cheap hobby CNC router](https://amzn.to/4ejYgMZ). It was small, underpowered, and not fancy—but it was mine. And I was pumped. From that little CNC, I eventually upgraded to a larger machine (the Shapeoko 3XXL) and thought, _“This is it. This is the future.”_ Then came lasers. First, I picked up a [tiny 5W diode laser](https://amzn.to/4kToecs) that mounted to my CNC. It was very underpowered, and it only lasted about a week before I returned it. That’s when I got a 10W dedicated diode laser—and **that’s when it all clicked.** From that point on… the fire was lit. ## **What’s in a Name?** People ask me all the time:** “Why ‘Created Workshop’?”** The answer’s simple: > _I’m a creation of Jesus, created by Him—creating things in the workshop._ > I’m a creation… creating creations. That truth is the foundation of everything I do here. It’s more than a clever name. It’s my identity and calling. ## **From the Shop to the Stage** Since starting Created Workshop, **my entire life has changed.** * I’m now a youth pastor. * I’ve built partnerships and friendships I never imagined. * I’m even speaking at one of the biggest laser conferences in the country this year. 😳 None of that would’ve happened without that one step: **trying something new.** ## **The Struggles Behind the Scenes** But let’s be honest: it hasn’t all been easy. Created Workshop started out as a creative outlet, and eventually morphed into a possible full-time job. That was my goal, at least. In 2023, I lost my job, and decided to try and go full-time with Created Workshop. This was my dream: working for myself full-time. I was determined to make it work, but in reality, **itput a real strain on my family and finances.** Throughout the journey, I doubted myself constantly. I wrestled with thoughts like: * _“Am I even good enough?”_ * _“Will this customer think I overcharged?”_ * _“What if this fails completely?”_ There were seasons where I was in the shop… even when I wasn’t. My body was home, but my brain was focused on the next task. I hit burnout. Hard. And yet, **God used every moment of it**—to grow me spiritually, personally, and creatively. ## **A Full Circle Moment** If you’ve been following along, you’ll know I recently **closed down the retail side of Created Workshop** to focus on content again. That was a hard decision—but the right one. Over the last 24 months, I’ve realized that I’m just not built for retail. **I’m a content creator. That’s where I thrive.** So now, I’m back creating content full-time for _How-To Geek_ while rebuilding Created Workshop around education, inspiration, and content—just like it started. ## **Created Workshop’s Mission Going Forward** My mission is simple: > **To inspire you to pursue the dreams God’s put on your heart.** Whether that’s: * Making something new, * Trying a tool you’ve been scared to use, or * Stepping into a calling you’ve been hesitant to chase… I hope that **through a file, post, project, or verse**, I can encourage you along the way. Because we’re not just here to make stuff. > **We’re here to make stuff that matters.** Thanks for being here. Thanks for being a part of this. **I’m truly grateful for you.** ~ Patrick **Created Workshop** _Ephesians 2:10_ ## **What’s Your Story?** I’d love to hear it. **What got you into making?** **Why do you do what you do?** ## Head on over and post in the 󠀁[Created Workshop Facebook group](https://facebook.com/groups/createdworkshopteam)󠁿! ## How to Create Stunning Slate Engravings with a 30W MOPA Fiber Laser: A Beginner’s Guide - Link: https://createdworkshop.com/how-to-create-stunning-slate-engravings-with-a-30w-mopa-fiber-laser-a-beginners-guide - Published: 2025-06-23T19:49:03-05:00 - Author: Patrick Campanale ![](https://createdworkshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/Slate-Fiber-Thumbnaill. webp) Engraving slate with a 30W MOPA fiber laser is an incredibly rewarding experience. Whether you’re making custom gifts, home decor, or just experimenting with the material, slate offers a unique challenge and opportunity for stunning designs. In this guide, I’ll walk you through every step of the process—from setting up the laser to achieving a perfect engraving. Along the way, I’ll share my settings and tips to help you get the best results, even if you’re just starting out. ## Set Up Your Slate and Laser Before you even touch the laser, you’ll need to secure your slate onto the laser bed. I’ve found that using acrylic corner brackets works well for alignment, but if you don’t have those, a simple method I use is to draw a circle in Lightburn that matches the size of your slate (in this case, a coaster). You can frame out the circle in Lightburn to double-check alignment before you start engraving. If you have the proper alignment, your design will engrave evenly every time. ## **Design and Settings for Engraving** The design I’m using for this tutorial is a deer head with a mountain scene, paired with the text “World’s Best Dad.” It’s a detailed design, but with the right settings, you can get sharp details even on slate. Here are the settings I used for this specific engraving: * **Speed:** 500mm/s * **Power:** 20% * **Frequency:** 100kHz * **Q-pulse:** 60ns * **Mode:** Bidirectional, crosshatch * **Line Interval:** 0.05mm * **Angle:** 45-degree angle * **Fill:** Flood fill These settings worked beautifully for this particular design, but the key takeaway is to experiment with your own power and speed settings based on your material and desired effect. For slate, you don’t need super high power; 20% should give you a deep enough etch without compromising detail. ## **Running Test Grids and Adjusting Settings** Before engraving your final design, it’s important to run test grids. Lightburn makes this easy by allowing you to create grids with different power, speed, and frequency combinations. Run a few tests to see how each combination impacts the engraving depth and quality. For slate, you want a crisp, clear engraving without too much burn-through, so finding the right balance is key. Test grids will help you find the ideal settings. Once you’re satisfied with your results, you can move forward with your final design. ## **Engraving the Final Design** Now that you’ve tested the settings, it’s time to engrave your final design! Load it into Lightburn, double-check the alignment one last time, and hit the start button. If you’re using the circle method for alignment, framing it again before starting ensures your design will be centered. The laser will slowly carve through the slate, creating each line of the deer head, mountain scene, and text. You’ll see the design come to life as the laser works its magic. It’s always a satisfying moment when you realize your settings are on point and your final piece is exactly what you envisioned. ## **Post-Engraving Care** Once the engraving is complete, carefully remove the slate from the bed. You’ll notice some dust or fine residue left behind, but I don’t typically clean the slate too much after engraving. I just use a quick blast of air to blow it off. This is all that’s needed to reveal the final, sharp engraving. If you’d like, you can give it a wipe down, but I find that air alone does the trick without disturbing the engraved details. ## **Troubleshooting Tips** Even with the best settings, there are times when things don’t go as planned. If your slate isn’t engraving deeply enough or if the details are blurry, here are a few things to check: * **Power and Speed:** If the engraving isn’t deep enough, try slightly increasing the power or slowing down the speed. Slate is a hard material, so it often requires a bit more power. * **Focus:** Ensure the laser is in perfect focus. A slight misfocus can cause the engraving to look fuzzy or uneven. * **Air Assist:** If your engravings are getting too smoky or dirty, consider adding an air assist to blow away the debris while engraving. This keeps the slate clean and helps maintain engraving quality. ## **Final Thoughts** Engraving slate with a 30W MOPA fiber laser can open up endless possibilities for custom projects. With the right settings and a little practice, you can create incredibly detailed and professional results. Take your time, test your settings, and don’t be afraid to experiment with different designs and effects. Before you know it, you’ll be creating beautiful slate engravings that stand out from the crowd! ## Forget the Tie—Dad Needs These Clamps - Link: https://createdworkshop.com/forget-the-tie-dad-needs-these-clamps - Published: 2025-06-15T01:32:38-05:00 - Author: Patrick Campanale ![](https://createdworkshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/A7308278.webp) Let’s be honest—Dad doesn’t need another tie, coffee mug, or multi-tool he’ll forget about in a drawer. But you know what he _will_ use? A good set of clamps. I’m not usually a fan of squeeze clamps. Most of them flex too much or don’t hold tight enough for clean glue-ups. But [this 6-pack from WORKPRO](https://amzn.to/3Tqv50Q) genuinely impressed me. The set includes four 6-inch clamps and two 12-inch clamps— plenty to handle most small to mid-size woodworking projects. I used them to glue up a desk shelf for my office. The legs needed to stay perfectly square, and these clamps locked them down with almost no adjustment. No slipping. No fuss. Just solid pressure and a clean glue joint. At $34 (down from the usual $40) right now, this set is priced right—and honestly, I’m thinking of grabbing another set just to keep around. If the dad in your life is into woodworking, DIY, or just appreciates quality tools, these are an easy win. [WORKPRO Bar Clamps for Woodworking, 6-Pack One-Handed Clamp/Spreader, 6-Inch (4) and 12-Inch (2) Wood Clamps Set, Light-Duty Quick-Change F Clamp with 150 lbs Load Limit Blue](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0875WV3CD?tag=createdworkshop-20&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1) [ Buy on Amazon ](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0875WV3CD?tag=createdworkshop-20&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1) Want to see them in action? Check out the quick build over on Instagram. https://www.instagram.com/reel/DK5ySXlN_H6/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading ## How to make a custom Christmas ornament with Cuttle - Link: https://createdworkshop.com/how-to-make-a-custom-christmas-ornament-with-cuttle - Published: 2024-10-08T13:45:00-05:00 - Author: Patrick Campanale ![](https://createdworkshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/Cuttle_personalized_Christmas_ornament. webp) It can be difficult to come up with a unique Christmas ornament idea. It’s sometimes even more difficult to take that idea and turn it into a physical product. [Cuttle ](https://cuttle.xyz/?via=patrick) is a website that makes designing many things for laser engraving easier, and in this post we’re going to take a look at how to apply that to Christmas ornaments. Though I’ll only be breaking down a single ornament’s design, the workflow applies across the entirety of Cuttle. Haven’t used Cuttle before? Use the code **CREATEDWORKSHOP** when [signing up](https://cuttle.xyz/?via=patrick) to score **10% off** your first month or year. Now, let’s dive into how to make this Christmas ornament with Cuttle and your laser. ## Generating the ornament is as easy as a few clicks Let’s start by making the ornament on the Cuttle website. While there’s many templates to choose from, I’ll be using the [Family Names Christmas Tree Ornament](https://cuttle.xyz/@cuttle/Family-Names-Christmas-Tree-Ornament-3TGvZj8E49p7) for the purposes of this post. You’ll need Cuttle Pro to use this template. This ornament went crazy viral last year, and this year I expect it to be similarly popular. Once you’re on the page for the [Family Names Christmas Tree Ornament](https://cuttle.xyz/@cuttle/Family-Names-Christmas-Tree-Ornament-3TGvZj8E49p7), the fun begins. About halfway down the page there’s a text box where you can begin typing names in to have the software automatically generate the cut file for you. Cuttle will put all the names in order of longest on bottom and shortest on top automatically, though under the advanced options you can disable this. Personally, I think this is an awesome feature and makes the design even less of a headache. While you might want certain names next to each other (which is still possible), having a properly-designed tree without having to mess with organization, alignment, and thinking is pretty great if I do say so myself. There’s options for changing the font, replacing the year with a tree trunk, and swapping out the default angel for other graphics like a star, snowflake, paw, or other objects. Really, you can spend as long or as little here as you’d like. For me, I swap the angel for a star, and type the names in, leaving the font, year, and everything else as-is. Cuttle will even give you a live preview of what the ornament will look like in real-time so you know exactly what the end result will be. All-in-all, it takes me about 45-60 seconds to generate a cut file using Cuttle for this ornament. And, it’d take even less if I was just copy/pasting names into the text box from an order. Click “Download SVG” and choose the format you want to save the file in (I choose SVG → Standard SVG here) and you’re ready to move into Lightburn (or whatever software you use to run your laser.) ## Moving to the laser couldn’t be easier The SVG exports at the proper scale for Lightburn (and should be the proper scale for other laser software too), which makes importing a one-click wonder. Simply drag and drop the SVG file into your software and you’re good to go. Since I left the design as-is, and didn’t set a border around it (which is an option Cuttle gives you,) I just set my cut settings to my standard 1/8-inch plywood and was ready to go. The cut took about two minutes or so on my 80W Monport CO2 laser, and cleanup was a breeze as I was using a pre-finished EcoBirch (TruFlat would work the same.) Tip: when using pre-finished plywood like EcoBirch/TruFlat/Baltic Birch/etc., use a melamine sponge (basically a Magic Eraser but way cheaper) to clean up the char. It’s the fastest cleaning method I’ve ever come across. After using the melamine sponge, I just use a cotton rag to wipe off any remaining smudges from the ornament and it’s ready for finishing. ## Finishing touches can take your ornaments to the next level ![](https://createdworkshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/456845318_557643520123731_3931842319233203766_n_480x480. jpg) Last year, I only used a piece of jute twine on my ornaments. This year, we’re changing things up a bit. All ornaments get at least some ribbon, some also get a wood bead on the top. My wife and I tried the bead with this ornament, but found that it took away from the star at the top, and just went with the ribbon only. It looks more premium, only adds a few cents to the cost of goods, and makes the ornament look so much better. Honestly, that’s it! I know this article isn’t super long, but that’s because the process itself isn’t super long. From start to finish, if I wasn’t filming/photographing this job, it would have been sub-5 minutes. And, if you batch them out, then it takes even less time per ornament as you only have to set the laser up once for several ornaments. I know this article might sound it’s a sponsored post by Cuttle, but it’s not. They did give me a trial of the Pro subscription for free, but in no way are they sponsoring any of this content. I just really love how simple and easy the website is and how it allows you to make personalized, custom ornaments in a matter of minutes. ## Pricing Your Projects Doesn’t Have To Be Difficult - Link: https://createdworkshop.com/how-to-price-your-project - Published: 2024-08-17T15:35:00-05:00 - Author: Patrick Campanale ![](https://createdworkshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/How_To_Price_Your_Products. webp) When it comes to pricing your items, it can sometimes be difficult to figure out exactly what you should charge. While I can’t help you determine your worth (hourly rate), what I can help you do is take that hourly rate (once you come up with it) and use it to extrapolate how much you should charge for a given item. I went back and forth on whether I should even do this as a blog post or not, but I feel this is the best way for me to help other makers price their work. Doing this as a blog post means that I’m also being completely transparent with my customers, which is never a bad thing, even though when it comes to pricing, it can be nerve- wracking. Before we get started, I do want to say that this is a long read. This post breaks down the intricacies of the formula, why it works, and how it works. You’re more than welcome to simply [grab the free Ultimate Maker Pricing Guide](https://createdworkshop.com/files/the-ultimate-maker-pricing-guide) and start using the Google Sheet right away! However, if you’re like me, and want to know _why_ it works, and _how_ to best use it, then keep reading. There’s a lot, but hopefully, I’ve organized it well enough that it flows quickly, and you’ll be done reading before you know it! Let’s start at the beginning. There are many formulas out there to come up with pricing. Some say do materials times three, others say take materials plus labor and multiply by two…and there are probably 764 other ways to price your products. Today, we’re going to talk about how I do my pricing. This formula is loosely based on [Rockler Woodworking’s method of pricing](https://www.rockler.com/learn/how-to-price-woodworking-projects)( just modified to fit my needs.)  I’ve developed a pretty stout Google Sheet for my pricing based on a formula that my wife and I have spent approximately two years working on. The formula takes into account just about everything you could need as a maker and can help you price out standard woodworking projects, laser projects, CNC projects, 3D printing projects, and even apparel making. If I expand into new markets, I’ll be sure to update the Google Sheet with the refreshed tabs as well! With all that out of the way, let’s dive into actually using the Google Sheet. I’ll break down each tab and walk you through how it works, why it works, and why you shouldn’t question the formula — I did…and it didn’t end well. The opening tab is just simply an explainer of the Sheet and defines a few terms that you’ll see throughout the document.  ![](https://createdworkshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/unsplash-image-qvWnGmoTbik. webp) ## Knowing Your Material Costs Tab two is where things start to get interesting. This tab (Material Cost) isn’t used throughout the document, but more so for you to reference. What I like to do is take a material I buy frequently (say, 12×19 sheet of 1/8 plywood), and multiply that into square inches (228.) From there, I divide the cost of that sheet of plywood( say, $4) by 228 (comes out to $0.0175) and then I write that down on the Materials Cost tab. I can include the supplier, link, and other pertinent information for that material. Now, whenever I go to use that material, I can look at Lightburn and see how big it is (3×4 inches, for example) and multiply it out (12 square inches.) With this information, I can multiply 12 square inches by the cost ($0.0175) and get the material cost ($0.21.) You can jot down everything here, from board foot cost for hardwoods to how much you pay per screw. This is really just a place for you to reference costs, and you’ll probably end up memorizing them after some time. ## The Tools Behind The Quote Moving onto tab three is where the party really gets started. Because of how complicated it might look, I’m going to break it down by tab (or tab group) so you know exactly how to use each one. ### Job This one should be pretty straightforward. Simply label the job here. You can use a customer name, project name, or whatever you want. This column is also filtered, so you can click the little icon to the far right of the column and search for a specific job or even a specific customer name if that’s how you want to do it. ![](https://createdworkshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/bench-accounting-MGaFENpDCsw- unsplash.webp) ### Hourly Rates This is something that I can’t really help you come up with to start. However, what I recommend is the same thing that Rockler recommends in the linked article above. Figure out how much money you want to make per year, and then extrapolate that out. On average, people work about 1,920 to 2,080 hours in a year. If we go on the lower end of that (I’d rather work less, I don’t know about you), then simply take your desired income and divide that by the number of hours you want to work. Going off of Rockler’s example, if you want to make $75,000 in a year, and you divide that by 1,920, you get $39 per hour. If you want to make $95,000 in a year, you get $ 50 per hour. Regardless of what you want to make, this is entirely up to you.  Something else to keep in mind here. You’re only making this hourly rate when you’re actually working. If you’re just doing this on the side, it’s easy to realize that you’re not working every single hour of the day. However, if you want to make $75,000 per year, and you put $39 per hour into the formula, then those times when you’re not working on a project (like when you’re working on a quote for a client, running to the store, etc.) you’re likely _not_ making $39 per hour. This is why I “charge” more than what I would expect to make per hour if I were working a solid 40 hours a week non-stop.  My hourly rate fluctuates and does go up over time. At the time of writing, I charge $95 per hour for my work. “You charge what?!” you may ask. If I was to make $95 per hour 40 hours a week 50 weeks out of the year, I’d be bringing home almost $ 200,000 per year. News flash: I don’t bring home **nearly** that much. I’m lucky if I bring home 1/3 of that much sometimes. This is because there are often times between projects where I’m working on other things (like writing this blog post. I don’t have a client paying me to write this) and I need the money that I make from jobs to sustain me between jobs too. Also, your hourly rate is the variable available in the formula for pricing. For any project, your material cost doesn’t change when doing more than one. I mean, if you’re buying tumblers in bulk, the cost of the tumblers might go down a little, but typically there’s not a huge variance there. That’s why, when I do bulk work, my hourly rate drops down as low as $65 per hour at the highest point. Changing my hourly rate makes it very easy for me to figure out pricing for clients that place bulk orders, as I don’t have to try and think. ![](https://createdworkshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/icons8-team-dhZtNlvNE8M- unsplash.webp) ### Time This is a fairly straightforward area, but one that can’t be overlooked. You need to know how long something takes you to do. Whether it’s manual time, laser time, or even 3D printing time, it’s crucial to know how long something takes. And, also, have a minimum. For me, it’s 0.02 hours (all time in this Google Sheet is in decimal form, with 1 being 60 minutes.) For reference, 0.02 is a rounded-up number from one minute. One minute in decimal is 0.0166 repeating, so I just round that up to 0.02. So, even if a task takes, say, 15 seconds on my xTool F1, I charge for 0.02 hours of work.  The time is really simple to equate, but also, there are a few formulas at play here. For 3D printing, time and hourly rate are really all I use for a quote. I charge $6 per hour of printing, and that’s it. So, those are pretty easy things to quote. However, the “Fiber Laser Time” column is unique. While the formula (we’ll get there in a bit) takes your time multiplied by rate to come up with a quote, the fiber laser doubles the laser rate for the quote. This is because fiber lasers work ** so fast** compared to gantry-style CO2 lasers. I could break this out into a separate field where you could input a separate hourly rate for fiber laser work, but for me, just simply taking my CO2 laser rate and multiplying it by two has worked perfectly for me. ![](https://createdworkshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/dillon-wanner-LnbpKjQVuFg- unsplash.webp) ### Material Costs This is a pretty straightforward area, and I only have it broken down into two components: wood cost and material cost. This works for me, but you could also expand this out further in the future if you needed. I simply just input the actual, exact costs of wood and/or materials here. Sometimes it’s more rounded than exact, but I try to keep this as precise as possible as that helps with the accuracy of the quote. However, you don’t have to include _everything_ here. Part of the formula is calculating shop incidentals (more on that in a bit), and with that, the cost of glue, some screws, nails, etc. are already factored into your estimated quote that the formula generates. If you know that you’ll need X number of screws (say, 250 pocket hole screws for a project) then include that in your material costs. The incidentals that are included really are designed to cover just some glue usage and some screw/ nail usage, but not hundreds of screws/nails or gallons of glue.  ![](https://createdworkshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/dan-lefebvre-mAwE-fqgDXc- unsplash.webp) ### What are Incidentals and Shop Profit? The formula includes areas for incidentals and shop profit to the right of the quote. These numbers are automatically generated using a formula and are then added to the final estimated quote. But, what are they? #### What are incidentals and why do they need to be part of your pricing strategy? Incidentals are items that you use during the creation of a project that you don’t directly bill for. Think of things like glue, screws, nails, double-sided tape, etc. It’s hard to know exactly how much super glue you’ll need during a project, but you still need to cover the costs of buying more glue when you run out. Sometimes you don’t plan to use three sheets of sandpaper for a project but you do, and you’ll need to buy more sandpaper at some point. Things like that. Incidentals is really designed to help cover the costs of things that you’re not able to inherently charge for. In fact, incidentals can also be a great way to cover the cost of things like a new laser tube, new CNC bits, and other consumables. Laser tubes eventually have to be replaced, and they can be quite expensive. CNC bits dull over time. So, having a dedicated line item to help you save up to replace those parts of your creative journey is essential, and, with this pricing formula, completely automated. #### What is shop profit and why does it need to be part of your pricing strategy? You might see all profit as shop profit. And, for some, that might be the case. If you’re doing this just on the side and not looking to make it a primary income source, then all profit over material and incidental costs could theoretically be profit you can use for anything and everything. However, if this becomes your livelihood and full-time job, that’s no longer the case.  Your hourly rate (and therefore, net profit) will end up going toward everyday expenses. Taxes, groceries, gas, the mortgage, electricity, insurance…all the fun adult stuff. However, it’s still nice to have some cash to upgrade things down the road for fun. Whether that’s adding AC to your shop, picking up a new laser, or just replacing your old shop lights with newer, brighter LEDs. That’s where the shop profit line item comes in. Shop profit is money that’s designed to be set aside purely for spending on the shop. This money is designated to go toward shop upgrades or expansions, however you see fit. It’s just a little extra added on top to give you some additional cushion when it comes time to spend money on the shop. Sometimes it’s easier to swallow a purchase if you have a budgeted line item for that purchase, instead of just pulling the money out of a general fund.  ![](https://createdworkshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/fabian-blank-pElSkGRA2NU- unsplash.webp) ### Do you have to use all the areas of this quote generator? The short answer is: no. You don’t. In fact, there are times that I don’t. You see, I have shop profit and incidentals factoring into my quotes right now but because of my wife and I’s financial state, shop profit is lumped into our normal income, and incidentals exists, but not in the way that I’d like it to in the future. And, that’s perfectly fine. I still have it factor and I still track it like that because it helps me to see where things will be in the future, and it helps me to properly price projects. I’d rather price things accordingly now so that way down the line I don’t have to change things, develop new formulas, and adapt pricing strategy to include it. All I have to do is just keep things flowing just as they are, and change a few budget line items in how we track our expenses. You can do the same. I would urge you to not remove anything from the formula, but to just use the information as you see fit. Removing incidentals and shop profit from the formula would take completely re-writing the formula, which is entirely possible and something that you could easily do if you wanted to! The cells on the sheet are simply displaying the result of the formula, not actually doing anything to the formula. So, removing the cells from the sheet won’t change the actual formulation of things, and I don’t recommend that you change the formulation at all. But, you can if that’s something that you’d really like to do! ## How To Quote Now, this is the part you’ve probably been waiting for. And I don’t blame you, as this is where the rubber meets the road. You’ve gone through and inputted your hourly rate, time required, and material costs, and the formula has done the hard work. Now, there’s a quote waiting for you in the Estimated Quote column. So, what do you do with it? Well, that’s entirely up to you. The formula is designed to factor in everything I’ve already mentioned; hourly rate (double your laser rate for fiber time), materials, shop profit, and incidentals. It takes all that into account and spits out a number for _you_ to see. It’s extremely rare my customers see the estimated quote, as it’s just that, estimated. This is a place for you to _start_ with pricing, not end. ![](https://createdworkshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/clay-banks-E2HgkL3LaFE- unsplash.webp) I will say, never make your official quote lower than the estimated quote. One time we did a project for someone and the formula told us to charge $80 per item. That sounded astronomical to us, and my wife and I decided to charge the customer $40 per item. 50% of what the formula recommended. We would still be making a decent profit, but $80 each just sounded like it was so high. After doing the project, we determined that we wouldn’t do it again for a penny less than $100 each next time. The formula was right, we were wrong. That was the one and only time I’ve ever gone lower than the formula, and it was an immediate regret. However, there are many times that I’ll go higher than the formula. If it says $ 77.24 for the quote, I’ll typically quote it at $80. However, if it says $75.45 or even $76.75, sometimes I’ll drop it down to $75. I know I just said to not go lower than the formula, but a dollar or two I’ve never regretted if it makes it easier for my customers. My pricing strategy is always whole numbers, and typically with a reason. When prices get higher, I’ll typically round to the nearest $5 or $0 (so $213 would be $215, and $217 would be $220.) For lower numbers, I’ll just normally round up to the closest whole dollar, and occasionally to the nearest $5 or $0 as I do for the larger. There’s no rhyme or reason for when I do either, it all just depends on the project.  Also, you absolutely could go with the exact number that the formula spits out. If it says $74.56, then you could very easily make that your quote for the customer. That number factors in everything that we’ve already talked about, and rounding it only makes it an easier number to remember. Once you’ve determined your official quote, simply punch that into the official quote column and the formula will then work out what your net profit is. The gross net is your official quote minus cost of goods sold. Net profit (all the way to the right) takes your net profit and subtracts incidentals and shop profit.  I split it up this way because that lets you see your true net profit (quote minus COGS) and then also the profit if you were to set aside incidentals and shop profit, so you know how to budget either way. ![](https://createdworkshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/s-o-c-i-a-l-c-u-t-7KkDiSs5UdQ- unsplash.webp) ## How To Price For Bulk Sales So, now that you know how to _use_ the formula and the Google Sheet, let’s talk about the other tabs at the bottom. They all work the same, just some are laid out a bit differently, or have different tasks. The fourth tab within the sheet is for your bulk pricing. This is just so it’s easier to keep bulk pricing separate from individual clients, and this is how I’ve found my workflow works best. Bulk pricing works relatively simply, at least, for me. As I said early on in the post, I charge $95 per hour for my time because I know that not 100% of my working time will be billed to a client. However, the more of my time a client bills, the lower they’ll pay for it. This is because if a client orders, say, 100 t-shirts from me, that will monopolize a lot more of my time that week. For this, I drop my hourly rate in increments of $5 per hour depending on how large the bulk order ends up being. My personal bottom rate (at the time of writing) is $65 per hour for bulk. My material cost might change slightly if my supplier passes on a bulk rate to me, so I’ll update the quote to have my new hourly rate plus the new material cost and that’ll help me come up with a bulk rate. Bulk rates are also relatively fixed. For example, when doing t-shirts, my retail price is $25, as you can see across my website. However, if someone wants to place an order of 75+ shirts with me, that price drops down as low as $14 per shirt depending on the end use of the shirt. If it’s wholesale, then it’s one price, if it’s just bulk for use for other purposes, it’s another. I have tiered pricing just like many other companies depending on what the end use of the item will be.  You’ll see this reflected within the rest of the sheet, as well. Which, should be pretty self-explanatory. The rest of the tabs within the sheet are all related to t-shirt production, which could be entirely ignored if that’s not something you plan on doing. Really, these all use the exact same formula, just with fewer columns for costs, and a few more on the other side so you can track things like brands, model numbers, and supplier names. If you have any problems with the Google Sheet, or would like to ask any other questions, then feel free to join our [Created Workshop Facebook group](https://www.facebook.com/groups/createdworkshopteam) or [Discord](https://discord.gg/B9ymQdwTCr)! I’m active in both groups, though the Facebook group does have more activity by others who can also chime in to lend a hand or assistance. If you’d like to use my pricing Google Sheet, [download the free Ultimate Maker Pricing Guide](https://createdworkshop.com/files/the-ultimate-maker-pricing-guide) from the shop. The guide links to the Google Sheet, so open that link, then hit “ File” then “Make a copy” and you’ll have your own copy of the pricing worksheet to use in any way you see fit!